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Comparing Coffee Subscriptions – Offerings From Has Bean and Square Mile

7 Nov

I’ve been meaning to get around to this post for a while now, but I decided that I would hold off on writing it until the last coffee in my Square Mile subscription arrived, which it now has. It is a bit awkward as well, mainly because I don’t really want it to sound too much like an “I’m Judging you” review, so I’ve spent a bit of time thinking over how I should write it. I also don’t want it to sound too much like a promotional piece. As we all know, I love Has Bean and – big disclaimer – I don’t pay for my current subscription, I won it as a prize in the Irish heats of the Brewer’s Cup this year. Although in my defence I had already worked through three of the three-month In My Mug subscriptions when I got the prize.

What I want to do is compare the two subscriptions, Square Mile’s filter roast subscription and Has Bean’s In My Mug coffee subscription, not in a critical ‘this one is better manner’ but rather to act as a guide for people new to coffee (just like me a year ago) in making what can be a daunting first investment (right up there with your first really good grinder) in speciality coffee. That said, either of these two subscriptions would be a great starting point and overall I could not recommend one over the other. The two subscriptions are however, at least in my experience, quite different both in terms of the package as a whole and the contents, and depending on your own situation or interests, suitable for different purposes.

So first off, the packages themselves:

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Comparative Cupping (with some interesting roast dates)

21 Oct

This blog post is long, long overdue (and also really, really long). In fact I did this cupping way back in July. Almost two long ago to really write about seriously, although I did take extensive notes on the cupping and a whole bunch of pictures too. The reason why I want to revisit it though is because it was really fun, and really targeted. I had four coffees on the table, two Yemeni and two Costa Rican. I had been wanting to compare the two Yemens back to back for quite a while, and the Costa Ricans interested me, same farm, same process, different roasters and very different roast dates. I’ll get into that a bit mor later.

I wanted to mix things up a bit, take a comparative perspective and openly compare the similar coffees to each other (normally my cupping tables at home are random affairs, with very different origins, varietals and processes). Another reason was that three out of the four coffees were pretty old, all over six weeks and the fourth just about two weeks. I wanted to think more about the impact of post-roast ageing on profiles, as it was something I had been thinking about a good bit in my preparation for the Brewer’s Cup. A very extreme example and not very scientific, but aimed a palette training, it was an interesting exercise none the less.

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Digressions in Coffee

19 Oct

Some of you out there may have noticed that I posted a new video on Vimeo during the course of the week. Initially when I started to think about filming, it was meant to be a short 3-4 minute brew guide for the v60, perhaps set to some fun music and with text on screen to explain what was going on. But the more I thought about what I was doing, the more it felt wrong to present my brew recipe in this manner.

For me, brewing coffee is a fun and engaging experience, at least as much so as the imbibing of the final product. I have spent (far too much) time over the past year thinking about brewing methods and techniques, keeping diaries and logs of my brew variables and recording the sensory results of these endeavours. On a personal level, this culminated in my participation in this years Brewer’s Cup at both national and international levels. After the competition had ended and I returned home, highly caffinated and exhausted, I was left wondering. What next?

For me, coffee was never going to be a career. It was and is still a hobby for me. I love the freedom of brewing at home and the potential for experimenting and messing about with parameters and extractions. And besides, my eyes are currently set on finishing up my doctorate in international politics, entering the world of academia and disappearing forever.

But coming back from my week in Maastricht, a week spent surrounded by various parts of the industry (interesting and not), I found myself realising that I was going to miss the level of engagement I had achieved over the previous few months. But I wasn’t sure how I could keep up that engagement, or even contribute something, and I sort of stumbled around feeling a bit lost (figuratively speaking) for a few months.

Since the Brewer’s Cup, I had gotten a good few requests from friends and acquaintances to knock together a few brew recipes and such based on my experience in the competition, and some others after I did a little ‘Ghetfecta’ video when I was sitting at home bored one Sunday afternoon. I kept managing to put off blogging about these recipes, for the most part as I wasn’t sure how well I could put down my thoughts and procedures on paper. Committing my thoughts and routine to paper seemed very final and specific and the last thing I wanted to do was present people with specific instructions for brewing coffee.

My own experiences had thought me that regardless of how much we strive for scientific precision in our brewing, an unbelievable number of factors and variables remain uncontrolled within the brewing process from person to person. This starts with very basic things such as peoples pouring speed and patterns, freshness of beans and water temperature to more specifics such as burr wear on grinders, the specific grinders themselves and the way they are dialled in, to minute details such as water composition and pH.

When I got my first aeropress and then swiftly followed it with my chemex, I spent hours browsing online, looking up brew recipes and guides and attempting to make sense of the many contradictory instructions and pieces of advice that were available. Very few of them worked well, and even fewer in a sustainable and consistent manner. This is not to say that all of the advice was useless or bad, but rather different people approaching the issue of brewing coffee differently, these different starting points (in a very Quinean manner) resulted in different conclusions, each tailored to different tastes.

That was the point at which I took matters into my own hands and started to note down parameters for all my brews. Everything from dose to the number of times stirred during the brew. I then appended sensory notes to each brew, noting when flavours felt under and over extracted, when I hit the nail on the head and other times when it simply was alright. After about six weeks of doing this three times a day, my technique was forming and was growing in consistency and I had finally broken through into an area when I was confident I could brew really good coffee most of the time.

Much of the technique was drawn from the sources I had found online, but each had been adapted in its own way to fit my particular circumstances. What was important at the end of the day was that I could now enjoy great coffee at home, it ceased being the big scary zombie elephant in the room and I began to relax and experiment, rather than getting down if something didn’t work.

So this is what essentially held me back when people asked me for brew recipes, I simply was not sure I could articulate the recipe in such a way as to be of any use. Actually blogging a recipe had been off the books with me since August and I had been toying with the idea of video brew guides since then, so when I finally sat down to do so, I had the face the issue of articulating th brew recipe in such a way as to inform, to entertain and most of all to portray the recipe in an open manner, open to criticism, critique, exploration and change.

This was about the stage when I decided to do a videocast type guide rather than a music video with some nice textual information. I could talk directly with the viewer, present more information on what I was doing, explain why I was doing what I was doing and essentially talk people through my own brew method. It would have to be informal, formality has its place but in the context of a guide could come across as too prescriptive, I wanted it to feel like a chat, a brief explanation between two friends sharing a coffee. And past that, I wanted it to be useful. Anything else was frosting.

Initially I had planned it to be a once off, get something people had been asking me for out there and be done with it. But I did have a lot of fun doing it and by the time I had finished editing and encoding, I was curious about perhaps doing some more with different brew methods/approaches. I said I would see how the first video went and then make a decision. I received an awful lot of really great feedback (thanks a million really), alot of it surprisingly flattering. So I am sitting here at the moment working through plans for a second episode and trying to decide what I want to do next.

I won’t be knocking them out every week. I am reluctant to commit to more than one a month, university will be getting very busy for me over the next few months, but I hope to knock one out every four weeks or so. I hope to keep them as informal and light hearted as the first one. I honestly believe that brewing great coffee at home is a very simple and accessible exercise and one that should be enjoyable rather than a chore. My goal if anything is to highlight this.

So anyway, that’s about it from me for now, I’m off to do something I actually get paid to think about.

The Espro Press – Because I Can!

2 Jul

So the guys at Espro were nice enough to put up an Espro Press as a prize for each of the first round competitors in the World Brewer’s Cup in Maastricht. Having heard about these briefly a few weeks back, I was intrigued and really interested in getting my hands on one. To put it bluntly, I would have walked away happy there and then if I never made the final, sometimes the nerd in me is far too strong. I had a few brews from it at the brew bar on the Friday, among the most interesting was a brew of Johan & Nystrom’s Kenya Gethumbwini, which we brewed up simultaneously in the press and my Chemex. Needless to say I got very excited after the comparison tasting and was impatient to get home and mess around with it.

The Espro Press - How Could You Not Want One?

For me personally it came at a really good time. I have been wanting to go back to my press pots for quite a while now, my current aversion to manual agitation has me wanting to redo my old brew recipes without the need to stir, so this gave me the opportunity to mess around and have a bit of fun. In the process taking out my new refractometer for a proper test run and thinking a bit more scientifically about what I was doing (don’t worry, I am not neglecting the importance of taste here, we shall see by the time I reach my conclusions). I had some interesting results which I will share below, in all their numeric glory and some interesting observations on taste to accompany. Currently I am a firm believer in the virtue of this little piece of kit.

So first off, aesthetics. I am in love with it, all shiny and stainless. It reminds me of those lovely shiny presses you encounter every now and again in restaurants, except this one produces a spectacularly clean cup and with the right coffee is downright mouth-watering. It is a very substantial piece of kit, double walled stainless steel gives it a good bit of heft. I like this in a brewer, I love my Hario kit, but seriously if you were not being so careful not to drop Hario glass, you wouldn’t even know it was in your hand. This feels big, bold and present, rather like the coffee it produces, but more on that later.

So what makes this little thing special? It is in essence a French press after all, people have played with better mesh filters and all before, with some nice results but nothing amazing. I myself have resorted to using aeropress filters sandwiched between the filter mesh and the stem on my old Bodum in an effort to produce a cleaner cup, with good but not amazing results. The aeropress in itself, when used for brewed coffee (rather than the faux espresso of its manual) does something similar to the good old press pot and produces a lovely sweet and clean cup. Yet I always find myself frustrated by the plunge and the “puck”, and I have always felt it more akin to a pourover cup profile than the richness and depth of traditional full immersion brewing.

What the Espro press has done is replace the filter mesh from the traditional french press with a microfilter basket and an airtight rubber seal (see image below). The rubber seal prevents fines migrating upwards along the side of the pot as the plunger is pressed down and the filter basket effectively double filters the brew. As you plunge, the brew initially enters the basket through the microfilter mesh on the sides and is then pushed up through another microfilter mesh on the top of the basket into the main chamber. The result is an incredibly clean (if not completely free of fines) brew. For those of you that hate the taste of paper from filters, the silt that is often typical of metal filters or even the pain in the ass that is cleaning cloth filters, this is a really nifty little trick and well worth looking into.

As I said it is not a completely fine free cup, but it is mighty damn close and virtually unnoticeable unless you leave it sit for half an hour or want to put a sample through a refractometer. While I am talking about the press itself, it is also incredibly easy to clean, the mechanism is far easy to rinse out than a traditional press and the basket simply pops off the end, no messy fiddling with 4-5 piece filters like in traditional presses. Pretty damn handy and certainly makes for less of a chore. How the mesh holds up overtime I am unsure, but I will update over time with cleaning and maintenance advice.

The Espro Press Filter Basket - Simple and Effective

Experimentation and numbers after the break…

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Brewer’s Cup 2011 – In Review

28 Jun

I feel a bit awkward writing this post. Not being in coffee as a profession leaves me feel like I’m standing with one foot in and one foot out half the time. I feel it is important to say that this is not the fault of anyone within coffee, but just a personal hangup, the result of still not knowing a lot of people outside of my local crowd and only knowing more through blogs and twitter. But I feel that as I was there and as I participated (I even wore the t-shirt) that I should at least give some sort of broad feedback on what I thought about the first year of the competition.

Another clarification (I fear this post may be riddled with them) is that many of the opinions expressed here (certainly only my own etc…) were all formulated before I even took part in the Irish heat, here I refer specifically to the structure of the competition as a whole. The only recent opinions are those which relate specifically to problems that arose over the weekend. Also if I sound like I am stepping on people’s toes, I apologise, that is certainly not the purpose of this post. I did as a whole enjoy the experience over the weekend and I do understand the difficulties and surprises that are thrown at people over the course of an event. We can only learn and move on from these problems, regretting them is somewhat pointless.

I am a bit fearful that the opinions here will be unpopular, especially after hearing people’s thoughts on the competition over the past but they are mine. But having participated in the event and invested a lot of work and time to preparation over the past two months, I feel it is my right to do so. I have also directed events (not quite so large, but of 700-800 people) so have some idea of the issues that can arise and potential ways of solving them. So anyway, page break here so you can get out while you still can.

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